July 16, 2020

An escapade with Himalchuli peak

July 16, 2020

6 min read

An escapade with Himalchuli mountain which is elevated above 7000 meters is certainly going to give you a different taste of climbing a mountain peak in Nepal.

Himalchuli lies south of Manaslu and has three peaks: the Main East (7893 m), West (7540 m) and North (7371 m). In local terms or Nepali language, the word “Himalchuli” means “Sharp snow peak”.

It presents a varied topography, with gradual glacier-covered slopes interspersed with sharp rocky peaks. The mountain is the second highest mountain in the Mansiri Himal and the 18th highest mountain in the world and is also noticeable and remarkable for its large vertical relief over local terrain.

Climbing Himalchuli is of course tough and difficult in Nepal. The mountaineers in the past have attempted 10 unsuccessful climbs and 5 successful climbs.

Earlier exploratory expedition to Himalchuli were made in 1950 and 1954, and the first attempt was made in 1955 that failed. Following this other reconnaissance and attempts were made in 1958 and 1959.

The first successful ascent of this peak was made on May 24, 1960, by Hisashi Tanabe and Masahiro Harada, of Japan. The route followed the “Sickle Ridge” from the southwest.

The pioneering mountaineers first climbed to the saddle between the West and Main peaks, where they placed the last of six camps. The West Peak was first climbed in 1978 by two members of a Japanese expedition to the main peak of Himalchuli.

The Japanese climbers had climbed from the south (the Dordi Khola) and approached the summit of the West Peak from the east. The North Peak was first climbed in 1985 by a Korean expedition, via the North Face.

There are 7 upper camps which are used for this expetiion. From base camp 4200m, we have fixed Advance base camp above 5100m which crosses Lindanda glacier. From advance camp to Camp 1 above 5900m, Camp 1 to Camp 2, 2 6500m, camp 2 to Camp 3 above 6200m, Camp 3 to Camp 4 above 6450m, from camp 4 to camp 5, 6900m, from camp 5 to camp 6 above 7250m. From Camp 6 to Camp 7, 7700m is 65 degrees and from camp 7 to summit Himalchuli 7893m 40 degree ice climb.

To reach the base camp of Himalchuli we follow the trekking route for which we drive from Kathmandu to Aarughat- Sotikhola then start trek to Machhakhola, Jagat, Deng, Namrung and base camp.

Best time to visit Himalchuli:

Between October and December is the best time to visit Himalchuli in Nepal as the skies are generally clear and the views spectacular. The weather remains dry until about April.

The following itinerary can be followed for expedition during the season.

Day 01: Arrive in Kathmandu and transfers to Hotel, overnight Hotel

Day 02: Day 03: Kathmandu final preparation for expedition.

Day 04: Kathmandu to Aarkhet Bazaar (620m), or Soti Khola by Jeep/ Local Bus 6 -9 hours, overnight hotel.

Day 05: Aarkhet/Sotikhola trek to Machhekhola (870m), 5-6 hours, Overnight Lodge /Tea house.

Day 06: MachheKhola to Jagat (1340m), 5-6 hours, Overnight Lodge /Tea house.

Day 07: Jagat trek to Deng (1860m), 5-6 hours, Overnight Lodge /Tea house.

Day 08: Deng trek to Namrung (2630m), 5-6 hours 2300m, Overnight hotel.

Day 09: Namrung trek to Himalchuli base camp (4200m), 4-6 hours, Overnight Camp.

Day 10: Rest day in Base camp, Overnight at camp.

Day 11: to Day 30: Himalchuli 7893m Summit period, Overnight at Camp.

Day 31: Base camp to Namrung, overnight at lodge/guest house/