Climbing Dorje Lakpa mountain

Expedition to Dorje Lakpa expedition located at a height of 6988m is one of the most challenging expeditions in Nepal that offers luring challenges for the daring and adventurous mountaineers.

The mountain is located at the solid mass of Jugal Himal, east of the Langtang Valley and south of Shishapangma (Tibet).

This fascinating mountain is visible from Nagarkot and even from Kathmandu valley when the sky is clear. For this expedition, you need good physical fitness and technical climbing experience.

Three high camps are established while approaching the summit. It is also considered a medium range of technical mountains for climbing.

The best time to climb this mountain is autumn & spring season. The challenging expedition passes through typical Nepalese villages, forests and jungles, rhododendron, bamboo, pine trees.

Mount Dorje Lakpa Expedition starts from Syabrubensi after 6-7 hours drive from Kathmandu. Dorje lakpa expedition is also known as Dorje Lakpa peak climbing.

Expedition History

A Japanese expedition in the late 1960s had successfully made the first attempt by the west ridge.

In 1986, a German–Nepalese expedition (Klaus Stark (leader of the expedition), Mathias Rau, Helmut Müller, Bernd Mayer (doctor), Thomas Oeser from T.A.K. (Turner-Alpen-Kränzchen), a German section of the DAV, German alpine club, and the Nepalese Joint-Members Ang Pasang (Sirdar) and Pemba Tharke) reached the mountain from the southern Balephi Khola and attempted to climb it over the west ridge.

On July 11, 1986, Helmut Müller, Bernd Mayer reached the summit separately; Müller is forced to bivouac at 6,700 m (21,980 ft) while descending.

Another attempt was made by a 7-member-team Italian expedition ADC89 during the fall of 1989, again from the west ridge and approach from the south. Another successful expedition was a French team of four in 2001 besides several other expeditions.